The 12 condiments of Christmas

Maple syrup

Salt, sweet, bitter, acid, umami. While we don’t think to use too much “sweet” before dessert, it can counterbalance and enhance other flavours. Maple syrup is my sweetener of choice during the holidays because it just tastes cozy. Add it to roasted root vegetables or a poultry glaze, and it’s especially tasty in drinks, from hot apple cider to eggnog and even mulled wine.

Homemade butter

I’ve never met anyone who didn’t like butter, or ooh and ah at a homemade one. Think of this ridiculously easy condiment as a blank canvas; you know your guests best, so feel free to add whatever spice, herb, or flavouring they’ll love the most. Think brown sugar and cinnamon; dried herbs and lemon zest; maple syrup and miso; parmesan and pepper; or gochujang and chopped spring onion.

Bovril

Bovril is an absolute must during the holidays. It’s an easy way to start a gravy base, and an even easier way to glaze veggies, plus its history is surely a conversation starter. During the Franco-Prussian war in the 1870s, in an effort to feed his troops, Napoleon III commissioned John Lawson Johnston to develop a non-perishable protein. First named Johnston’s Fluid Beef, this salty spread made from beef bones, salt and flavourings was renamed Bovril in 1886.

Cranberry sauce

As an American, I take my cranberry sauce extremely seriously (after all, it is a Thanksgiving staple). I’ve always been my family’s designated cranberry sauce maker and rarely show up with fewer than three variations. Of course, in my opinion classic is best so start by putting 500g fresh or frozen cranberries in a large pot with the juice and zest of two lemons, 240g granulated sugar and 250ml water. Bring to the boil (the cranberries will begin to pop), then cook for around 10 minutes, until it reaches your desired consistency. Place in a bowl directly in the fridge or plop into a sterilised jar.

Flaky salt

There’s ingredient salt and then there’s gorgeous, crystal clear, flaky condiment salt. The word condiment comes from the Latin verb condire, which means to “enhance the flavour of” – you wouldn’t use flaky salt while cooking, but you would use it to top a finished dish to give that extra pizzazz. For Christmas, toss some quite literally on roast potatoes or dessert for that sweet-and-salty element, and some textural fun. In the UK, I always go for Halen Môn.

Grainy dijon

Grainy dijon can level up a dish thanks to its texture. I love a chunky mash so when I’m served a silky, almost soup-like mashed potato dish I just dollop in a big spoonful of grainy dijon for a nice pop of acidity and bite. It can also be used to coat brussels sprouts, dip pigs in blankets, as a layer in leftover turkey sandwiches … you name it!

Bloody mary ketchup

OK, we’re getting ahead of ourselves here and skipping to Boxing Day breakfast. I think it’s safe to assume last night was a long one and you may need a burst of energy? That’s where this ketchup comes in. Add a quarter-teaspoon celery salt, a teaspoon of horseradish, the juice of half a lemon, a half-teaspoon of hot sauce (ideally red to preserve the traditional ketchup colour) and one and a half teaspoons of Worcestershire sauce to 240g ketchup and combine. Don’t have any ketchup? Just combine 200g concentrated tomato puree, 80ml apple cider vinegar, a half-teaspoon of onion powder, a quarter-teaspoon of garlic paste, an eighth of a teaspoon of ground cumin, and some salt and pepper.

Herbs

Please don’t forget about herbs! These condiments (yes, condiments – they’re not needed but they add flavour) bring emotions into dishes. They’re so much more than last-minute garnishes: add sage to your stuffing, a bay leaf to your gravy, some rosemary to your potatoes, and dill to lemony smoked salmon.

Candied olives

I am well aware that this is not a traditional Christmas condiment, but hear me out. Candied olives are briny, sweet, slightly spiced and the perfect addition to a cheeseboard, plus a jar becomes a two-in-one condiment: use the liquid for glazes, dressings and marinades, and the olives for cheeseboards, finely chopped and swirled into butter, baked into bread, or even tossed into salads. To make, strain a tin of black olives (I use the cheap, pizza-style ones, but feel free to splurge as long as they’re in brine, not oil). Toast a teaspoon of chilli flakes in a pan over a high heat, moving them around for five minutes. Transfer them to a pan with 250ml water and 175g white granulated sugar over a medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Once the sugar has dissolved, add the olives and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes. (I like to smash the olives under my wooden spoon to create texture.) Once you’re happy with the syrup’s thickness, transfer to a glass jar and seal. Let this sit on the counter until cool, then pop in the fridge. They get better over time, so I’d recommend prepping them a few days in advance.

Spiced plum chutney

I love adding plums to holiday dishes, whether baked alongside a roast chicken or served with duck; the deep, rich flavour always highlights a protein without overpowering it. For Christmas this year, I’d opt for a spiced plum chutney as it can be paired with turkey, goose or a beef wellington, as well as with starters, sides, cheese and especially leftovers the next day. Place 300ml white wine, 200g carob molasses, 100g brown sugar, three teaspoons mustard seeds, a teaspoon of chilli flakes, a cinnamon stick, a half-teaspoon of ground ginger, a finely chopped onion, a finely chopped shallot, two tablespoons of port and a pinch of salt in a pot and bring to a boil. Once the alliums are translucent, add 800g plums, stoned and sliced, and simmer, stirring frequently, over a medium heat for 30-40 minutes. While it’s still hot, pour the chutney into sterilised jars and close immediately. This tastes better with time so prep it a few weeks in advance.

Salt and sugar blend

We rarely see salt and sugar combined and I’ve always wondered why, so I started making my own (use half a cup of salt for every cup of sugar). Although this duo works for all seasons, I find that holiday flavours marry particularly well with the contrasting tastes. Feel free to add anything that takes your fancy into your blend: orange zest, cinnamon, nutmeg, powdered ginger, tonka bean – the list goes on. Use to coat sugar cookies or shortbread, to top a loaf cake, sprinkle over bread and butter, dip fruit into, add to a poultry glaze or your morning oats, or to rim a cocktail glass.

Mulled wine jelly

Last, but most certainly not least, is my mulled wine jelly, which is a start-to-finish Christmas dinner condiment. It’s a paté’s best friend, pairs wonderfully with soft white cheese, and is a fun topping for a beef wellington. Make sure to prepare enough because, regardless of what dessert is on the table, you can also top it with this jelly: vanilla ice-cream, mince pies, festive trifle, cheesecake … It’s really up to you!

Prep a spice bag with a cinnamon stick, two star anise, three cloves, and half a dried slice, or both, of lemon and clementine. (To dry citrus, thinly slice, place on a baking sheet and bake at 100C (80C fan)/gas ¼ for an hour.) Heat 750ml red wine and the spice bag in a saucepan over a medium-high heat for a minimum of 20 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to infuse for at least 10 minutes. Remove the spice bag, and add 12g powdered pectin and 400g granulated sugar, whisking to dissolve. Bring everything to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for five to 10 minutes. Transfer the hot jelly to hot sterilised jars, and seal. Place in the fridge (don’t worry if it doesn’t look set right away, it takes a few hours to take shape).

Claire Dinhut, AKA Condiment Claire, is the author of The Condiment Book: A Brilliantly Flavourful Guide to Food’s Unsung Heroes, published by Bloomsbury at £14.99.